{"id":1006,"date":"2026-09-07T18:08:15","date_gmt":"2026-09-07T18:08:15","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/atlaslivingmedia.com\/?p=1006"},"modified":"2026-09-07T18:08:15","modified_gmt":"2026-09-07T18:08:15","slug":"whats-behind-the-dubai-ification-of-americas-yemeni-cafes","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/atlaslivingmedia.com\/?p=1006","title":{"rendered":"What\u2019s Behind the Dubai-ification of America\u2019s Yemeni Cafes?"},"content":{"rendered":"
\n

Inside Qahwah Time, a Yemeni coffee shop in Downtown Brooklyn, the icy-cool and spicy-warm fragrance of cardamom brew hangs in the air. Undulating tan slats cascade across the ceiling, resembling the sand dunes of the Arabian Desert. The arched latticework captures the crisp light that pours through. It all comes together to form a pristine scene of understated Arab luxury.\u00a0<\/p>\n

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Yemeni cafes in the US have been known for their colorful ornamentation, Arabic calligraphy, and graphics depicting the history of the Middle Eastern country\u2019s coffee culture. But, as hundreds more have opened across the country in recent years, in what has become nothing short of a Yemeni goldrush, their aesthetics are undergoing a dramatic shift. Newer locations are increasingly pursuing a modernist, international minimalism and the result looks straight out of a Dubai shopping mall.\u00a0<\/p>\n

Adel Imathil, who opened Qahwah Time last year, explained the balancing act he instructed his Dubai-based interior designer to follow for his cafe. \u201cA little bit of Yemen, like a little bit,\u201d he said. \u201cBut at the same time, we don\u2019t want to lose our identity.\u201d<\/p>\n

Customers are noticing. Asad Dandia, a New York City historian and tour guide, asked on X if anyone else had noticed that new Yemeni cafes have a United Arab Emirates aesthetic characterized by a \u201csleek, minimalist look with bright lights, no cultural branding, zero ornamentation, and Instagrammability over taste.\u201d The post drew an outpouring of responses from across the country. \u201cI was genuinely shocked that all these people came out of the woodworks to be like, \u2018Man, I was thinking the same thing,\u2019\u201d Dandia told The Nation<\/em>.<\/p>\n

Hamzah Nasser, owner of the Michigan-based chain Haraz Coffee House, said he minimized overt displays of Yemeni culture that were \u201call too in people\u2019s faces\u201d as he expanded to dozens of locations nationally, hoping to appeal to a wider audience. He recounted a story of an American veteran who seemed to stand at 6 \u20187 walking into one of his early cafes in Plano, Texas to ask if non-Muslims were allowed to come inside. \u201cI\u2019m like, \u2018Of course you\u2019re allowed. Who said you\u2019re not allowed?\u2019 He said he didn\u2019t want to barge in or be rude,\u201d Nasser recalled.\u00a0<\/p>\n

That experience was confirmation for Nasser that he needed to take a different approach to his cafes\u2019 interior design. Qahwah House\u2014the chain that would come to set the template for the Yemeni cafe scene\u2014covers a wall of its popular West Village location with a mural of founder Ibrahim Hasbani\u2019s family tree. But this is exactly what Nasser seeks to avoid in crafting the atmosphere of his cafes. \u201cI don\u2019t want people to walk in and just see pictures of me and my ancestors all over the walls,\u201d he said. \u201cI want to just have people walk in and see the products, see a beautiful, modern design.\u201d<\/p>\n

Traditional Yemeni aesthetics may not always be conducive to a modern American cafe culture where people often face laptops rather than each other. Lorraine Nassif, the interior designer of dozens of Haraz locations among other coffee shops, said the darker colors and moodier lighting characteristic of typical Yemeni cafes are less suitable for students looking for a place to study for two-plus hours. \u201cWhen you walk into a place that is very clean, refined and has a lighter color palette, I would say it psychologically affects you and makes you want to sit a little bit longer,\u201d said Nassif, who grew up in Kuwait. \u201cMy approach is to take some elements of the culture and then rethink everything and design it in a way that\u2019s relatable to our current time, especially as the target audience has changed.\u201d\u00a0<\/p>\n

Haraz\u2019s minimalist yet luxurious vibe was informed by Nasser\u2019s visits to his family in Dubai, inspiring him to invoke the \u201cclean\u201d and \u201csafe\u201d atmosphere for which the Gulf city is known. After all, for many in the US, the Dubai brand has become shorthand for premium, upscale Arab and Muslim culture. The allure of Dubai has further been bolstered by the immense popularity of Dubai chocolate, the pistachio-infused trend that has captivated Generation Z globally. It has become difficult to find a deli or supermarket in the United States that does not stock at least a few Dubai chocolate-themed items; even Starbucks and Blank Street now carry pistachio coffee.\u00a0<\/p>\n

This newfound cultural cachet prompted Nasser to rebrand several products: Haraz\u2019s pistachio cookie, for instance, was reborn as a \u201cDubai\u201d cookie in the wake of the chocolate craze. \u201cIt brought us new customers that were looking for the Dubai hype,\u201d Nasser said. The lesson, it seems, is that the Dubai label can add perceived value to any Arab product.<\/p>\n

\u201cFor anyone to name something Dubai, it needs to meet the standard of Dubai,\u201d Nasser said. \u201cIt\u2019s the US Polo Association or Polo Ralph Lauren. You are gonna choose the Polo Ralph Lauren because the quality is going to be better than the US Polo Association.\u201d<\/p>\n

Waleed Mahdi, a professor and expert on Yemeni-American culture at the University of Oklahoma, said that the use of the Dubai branding is part of a longer history of Yemeni immigrant merchants playing on Western imaginations of the exotic Arabesque. \u201cThose orientalist fantasies have historically led to Yemeni restaurants that have been named Ali Baba, Aladdin, or even Magic Carpet,\u201d Mahdi said. \u201cIn my mind, Dubai is the new Aladdin.\u201d\u00a0<\/p>\n

So what, then, is a Dubai aesthetic? Yasser Elsheshtawy, a scholar of Gulf urbanism at Columbia University, says there is no single defining architectural style but that its hallmark is the commodification of urban space, viewing land and the built environment as profit-maximizing assets rather than public goods. To that end, he said, historic areas in the region have been largely razed and reconstituted as \u201copen-air museums\u201d whose function is to extract as many tourism dollars as possible. \u201cIt\u2019s a fake environment, completely inauthentic, and\u2026to me really represents the essence of the Gulf urban model.\u201d<\/p>\n

Read more This Week in \u2018Nation\u2019 History: Wendell Berry\u2019s Humanism and Wisdom for Our Times<\/a><\/p>\n

While historic Arab urban centers are characterized by lively informality where people from different socio-economic backgrounds interact, Elsheshtawy argues that the Gulf cities render large sections inaccessible to most people who cannot afford to spend money in them. \u201cAn underlying principle among many of these Gulf countries while they configure their cities and architecture is an erasure of the past and an embrace of Western modernism,\u201d he said. \u201cThe pre-oil phase is associated with poverty and hardship, so they wanted to move away from that toward a more progressive vision.\u201d<\/p>\n

The Gulf has emulated this Western neoliberal urbanism so successfully that it has perhaps become more associated with the phenomenon than the West itself. As Elsheshtawy points out, the Hudson Yards development in NYC is often called \u201cLittle Dubai in Manhattan.\u201d The UAE has, too, seen success in using this gleaming urbanism to obfuscate the uglier parts of its development model\u2014from the exploitation of construction workers in grueling labor camps to profiting off the genocide it backs in Sudan\u2014in order to present itself as the standard-bearer of a Western-oriented neoliberal order in the Middle East. \u201cThe problem here is that culture is being used in a way to project a certain image and political vision,\u201d said Elsheshtawy. \u201cThe appropriate term here would be culture washing.\u201d<\/p>\n

The stakes for Yemeni coffee shops are certainly much lower than that of Emirati geopolitical ambitions. But the cafe owners and their designers are also trying to project a similar vision of progress. Mokhtar Alkhanshali, an entrepreneur who helped pioneer Yemeni specialty coffee in the West, observes a cultural loop at play: cafes in the Gulf adopt the highly filtered, Instagram-friendly aesthetic of Western coffee shops, while US-based Yemeni cafes in turn take their cues from the Gulf. \u201cIt\u2019s a repackaging of a repackaging, just with a touch of Yemeni branding,\u201d Alkhanshali said. \u201cWe have a bit of an inferiority complex where we feel we have to follow Western looks to seem like we are progressing. I don\u2019t think it\u2019s purely economics, it\u2019s about wanting to look modern and successful.\u201d<\/p>\n

If this premium branding reels in higher-paying clientele, it is only natural for Yemeni-American entrepreneurs to utilize it when their product is pricey specialty coffee. \u201cInterior design and architecture become tools by which you achieve that objective,\u201d Elsheshtawy said. \u201cIt works for that customer base, it works for the investor. Whether it contributes to having an inclusive city, a city that appears lived in where everyone feels welcome\u2014that\u2019s a different story.\u201d<\/p>\n

While there is not necessarily anything wrong with Yemeni cafes having a business strategy, Elsheshtawy argues that a problem arises when that model becomes the only<\/em> choice. \u201cIf you want to go to a coffee shop where you are able to work with reliable Wi-Fi and you don\u2019t have to deal with people screaming around you, then you should be able to do that,\u201d Elsheshtawy said. \u201cBut if you want to be in a more boisterous environment where there\u2019s laughter, people talking loudly and comfortably, then you should also be able to do that. The problem in places like the Gulf is that they are increasingly targeted toward the former, to these more refined settings that are geared toward commerce.\u201d<\/p>\n

Clearly, the business model is working and there are no signs that the Yemeni cafe craze is slowing down. But the same could have been said of the growth-at-all-costs Gulf model of economic development just a few years ago. Their massive mega-projects, like the flying elevators in Saudi Arabia\u2019s science fiction-inspired Neom region planned for its Red Sea coast, once wooed global investors, but have since been dramatically downsized as harsh financial realities set in.\u00a0<\/p>\n

Alkhanshali believes that the American Yemeni cafe bubble is similarly due to burst. \u201cHow are you able to open 200 cafes in one year across the country and make sure each cafe is consistent with quality standards, storytelling, and sourcing strategy? It\u2019s impossible,\u201d he said.\u00a0<\/p>\n

Whether or not Yemeni cafes are in for a mass scaling back remains to be seen. But, so long as they\u2019re booming, questions of aesthetics persist. Qahwah Time owner Imathil, for his part, took issue with the idea that all high-end Arab culture has to be associated with Dubai. \u201cSome people think Yemen is nothing, but if you go to Sa\u2019ana or Aden, you\u2019re not gonna believe it,\u201d he said. \u201cI want to show people that Yemenis can do luxury, too.\u201d\u00a0<\/p>\n

Positive representation is no small thing for a country that has garnered international attention in recent years primarily because of its devastating civil war and the subsequent Saudi-led intervention, which is now on the verge of fully reigniting. \u201cThese cafes are incredibly powerful for Arabs, and Muslims in general, because they serve as a gateway,\u201d Alkhanshali said. \u201cMost Americans only know about Yemen or the Middle East from negative news stories. The cafes become a bridge.\u201d\u00a0<\/p>\n

There may be no single right way to represent Yemen in a coffee shop. But, what is clear is that the enormous popularity of Yemeni cafes has done more than anything in recent memory to buoy Yemen\u2019s standing in the wider American cultural canon. \u201cDespite what the interior looks like, it\u2019s still going to be presented and perceived as something Yemeni,\u201d said Ashrqat Saleh, president of New York University\u2019s Yemeni Students Association. \u201cAnd I think that in itself is doing good for the community.\u201d<\/p>\n

Read more An Unabashed Misogynist Is in Charge of Our Country. Now What?<\/a><\/p>\n<\/article>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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